Images of the Past Dunedin

The Historical Sewing Group I belong to "Images of the Past Dunedin" are looking for new members.

If you're located in the Otago region of New Zealand, like to sew & want to try something a bit different, that will also raise funds for the Children's Ward please visit their website http://bit.ly/1J0Z2Iv and share this message with friends who might be interested. Thanks!

Liebster Award

Apologies! The lovely Nessa from SewingEmpire asked me these questions via the ‘Liebster Award’ months ago, but I have been too damn useless soo busy...

- What is your favorite historical period?

For sewing, Victorian, specifically the bustle era periods, but really anything between about late 1860s – to early 1890s.

- How long have you been sewing, and how did you get into it?

Just under 2 years. I have a background in jewellery and I came interested in making Steampunk accessories - goggles and rayguns - but forgot those entirely once I saw the bustles and hats people were wearing.

Vintage sewing machine in perfect condition I bought for $40

About a month after I attended my first Steampunk event – wearing a mish-mash of stuff I already owned – I stumbled across a near-perfect vintage sewing machine in the Salvation Army Op-shop for only $40. 

But things really kicked-off when I ran into a Dunedin group of ladies who sew Victorian and Edwardian clothes. 

Dunedin Victorian and Edwardian costumers group

 - Which historical person would you like to meet and why?

Jack the Ripper - from a safe distance, or protected by a shark cage, admittedly. It bugs me not knowing who he was.

- Do you have a favorite kind of fabric you enjoy working with?

I find free fabric is the best kind.

- What will be your next project?

I’m taking a detour from strictly historical and venturing into cosplay – gasp – in the form of Spanish Inquisition outfits, ah la Monty Python.

Spanish Inquisition costumes as per Monty Python.

- Which place, in space and/or time, would you love to travel to?

I recently saw an engraving of the first manned hot-air balloon flight across Paris, 1783. For me, it captured the thrill of the moment. People climbing onto their rooftops to witness the impossible made real! That’s what I’d go see if Time-machines ever get their act together.

First manned flight 1783

- Where do you wear your sewing creations? Are you a regular at historical events or do you sew it just for yourself?

Alas, historical events are few and far between where I am. Over in the town of Oamaru (an hours drive from where I am) there's one main Steampunk event, and one Victorian event each year, but I figure something has to turn up actually held here in Dunedin one day, so I might as well prepare. >>Speaking of, word has reached me of a 'Jane Austen' Ball planned for Dunedin in Spring/October

- Do you have a favorite clothing item, historical or modern?

In terms of a piece on general, I like pocket hoops/ paniers. I think they’re funny. [In case you haven't heard of paniers, they were worn tied on your hips, as pasrt of the underclothes of the 18th century, their purpose was to make the dress-skirt puff out]

Paniers/Pocket hoops I made using the Dreamstress' instructions

- What is your favorite book?

In terms of sewing, “Hecklinger’s ladies garments” by Charles Hecklinger. It’s circa the 1880s and has sewing patterns, tips on construction, how to make trims etc, and general fashion advice, it’s an awesome resource and available free through archive.org. Read my review of this book HERE

- What are your other hobbies?

Sewing and thrifting pretty much covers it, unless Pinterest counts. You’ll always find me there :)

Sewing Milestone - Creating an 1880s outfit

A year ago as a novice sewer my historical costuming adventures began with my first Victorian Costuming Project, an 1860s Spoon Bonnet, followed by an 1863 outfit to mark the Dunedin Botanical Gardens 150th celebrations.

They were simple projects for a more simple time, chosen to help build up my sewing skills so one day in the distance future I might sew something from my fav decade, the 1880s.

Two months ago I knew I needed a complete outfit for an Images of Past Dunedin event by the end of March and like an American Idol contestant I wasn't going to let dubious skills stop me any longer so I took the 1880s plunge.

Here's what I came up with:

Olden-time posing under the Peasgoode Nonesuch apple tree

As making this outfit coincided [sort-of] with the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge #5 'Bodice' today I'll talk about the main part of the outfit, the jacket.

My inspiration for the chevron back came from the extant garment below, full details HERE at Bonhams.

Extant 1880s dress with chevron back detail - Source = Bonhams

Details for Historical Sew Fortnightly
The Challenge:  #5 'Bodice'
Fabric: dark blue synthetic outer, poly-cotton inner

Pattern: 
I chose 'Ladies Costume' from the 1888 National Garment Cutter,

By the way, the 1888 National Garment Cutter is available FREE from the Library of Congress, aka the Internet Archive HERE

Pattern printed and back sections cut

I drafted the jacket using Adobe Illustrator, plotting out the Nat. Garment pattern exactly as stated and then merging it with my measurements in the form of a sloper  - drafted for me by a very kind friend, and without which I could not have made the jacket at all. Thank you S.W!!!

Year: 1888
Notions: thread, hook and eyes

How historically accurate is it? 
I give this 8 out of 10 for historicalness. Excluding the fabric's synthetic content, the pattern is 100% authentic, the construction is flat-lined, and sewn entirely on my 1937 Singer No15 which only does straight stitch - no reverse!

The Cat being helpful and my 1937 Singer

Jacket is flat-lined

1880s jacket in construction

Hours to complete: Many! Spread over two months I loss count. I really don't want to think about the time it took least it prove I'm crazy for doing things like this.

Problems encountered: Aside from the masses of time this took, I only had one major hiccup, it turns out I totally have one shoulder lower than the other! Who knew?

1880s Jacket - back not fitting quite right due to 'purse shoulder'...see the wrinkles on left shoulder

Argh - Fitting fail, had to adjust the left shoulder several times...but got there in the end :)

First worn: 28 March 2014, Toitu Museum

I really like this jacket, there's something quite severe about it that appeals to my odd sense of humour. I feel I should be standing outside the Sally Army banging a tambourine and haranguing people about the perils of drink! Hmmm, who can loan me a tamborine?

First worn at Toitu Museum

Total cost: jacket under $20
Fun Times Achieved: Hell yes.

I say, I do love a good silhouette, but does this make my bum look big enough??

Costuming Outting

Some mornings are ordinary, other mornings you get to dress up in Victorian and Edwardian outfits, huzzah!

Today the costuming group I joined recently, Images of Past Dunedin , were invited to present at this month's Mosgiel Ladies Probus Club meeting.
I was very fortunate to be able to attend, mostly due to the generosity of Helen, loaning me two of her splendid outfits.

Members of costuming group: "Images of Past Dunedin" attend Mosgiel Probus meeting

Images often do "fashion shows" around Dunedin, any money raised goes to buying books for the children's ward of the hospital.

A weekend in Steam, but not a steamy weekend

Over the weekend I attended several of the Steam Festival events with the Dunedin Steampunk group.

At the festival opening, held at the Dunedin Railway station (poured with rain, typical) my no-sew bustle pad was put to good use as I dressed up as my character: Cadet Peasgoode, Misinformation Corps.

Not quite Victoria's secret: The no-sew bustle pad in action

The Steampunks weren't the only ones taking the opportunity to show off. The rayguns and goggles had competition for the limelight with another bunch of pretty frocks, a group who go by the name of "Images of the Past" and who enjoy making and wearing Victorian/Edwardian Fashion. I feel I shall have to investigate them further, possibly consider switching of teams...

Dunedin Steampunk attend the opening of the Steam Fest 2012

The punks won the show-off showdown however, their group photo graced the pages of the local newspaper the following day (So if you're keeping score that's Rayguns: One, Parasols: nil.)

Another day, another outfit: On Saturday the steam train Ka 942 brought down to Dunners especially for the festival, ferried passengers on a round trip from the central city to Sawyer's bay. I ventured out as: The Widow Peasgoode, (a golf widow, mother to Cadet Peasgoode) who is rather controversially an anti-suffragette, proclaiming as NZ was the first country to receive the women's vote, we should be the first to give it back...

The Widow Peasgoode and chums ride the Steam train

Despite the dreary weather, the train running out of fuel both the Widow and I had a good, slightly surreal time, especially when being photographed by tourists. Nice to think me and my big fake bum are doing our part in promoting lovely Dunedin in our own unique way.

For a more detailed account on what the festival was actually about, please read this blog post by my friend JT Webster, perhaps soon to be the embodiment of Queen Victoria?