They were simple projects for a more simple time, chosen to help build up my sewing skills so one day in the distance future I might sew something from my fav decade, the 1880s.
Two months ago I knew I needed a complete outfit for an Images of Past Dunedin event by the end of March and like an American Idol contestant I wasn't going to let dubious skills stop me any longer so I took the 1880s plunge.
Here's what I came up with:
|Olden-time posing under the Peasgoode Nonesuch apple tree|
As making this outfit coincided [sort-of] with the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge #5 'Bodice' today I'll talk about the main part of the outfit, the jacket.
My inspiration for the chevron back came from the extant garment below, full details HERE at Bonhams.
|Extant 1880s dress with chevron back detail - Source = Bonhams|
Details for Historical Sew Fortnightly
The Challenge: #5 'Bodice'
Fabric: dark blue synthetic outer, poly-cotton inner
I chose 'Ladies Costume' from the 1888 National Garment Cutter,
By the way, the 1888 National Garment Cutter is available FREE from the Library of Congress, aka the Internet Archive HERE
|Pattern printed and back sections cut|
I drafted the jacket using Adobe Illustrator, plotting out the Nat. Garment pattern exactly as stated and then merging it with my measurements in the form of a sloper - drafted for me by a very kind friend, and without which I could not have made the jacket at all. Thank you S.W!!!
Notions: thread, hook and eyes
How historically accurate is it?
I give this 8 out of 10 for historicalness. Excluding the fabric's synthetic content, the pattern is 100% authentic, the construction is flat-lined, and sewn entirely on my 1937 Singer No15 which only does straight stitch - no reverse!
|The Cat being helpful and my 1937 Singer|
|Jacket is flat-lined|
|1880s jacket in construction|
Hours to complete: Many! Spread over two months I loss count. I really don't want to think about the time it took least it prove I'm crazy for doing things like this.
Problems encountered: Aside from the masses of time this took, I only had one major hiccup, it turns out I totally have one shoulder lower than the other! Who knew?
|1880s Jacket - back not fitting quite right due to 'purse shoulder'...see the wrinkles on left shoulder|
|Argh - Fitting fail, had to adjust the left shoulder several times...but got there in the end :)|
First worn: 28 March 2014, Toitu Museum
I really like this jacket, there's something quite severe about it that appeals to my odd sense of humour. I feel I should be standing outside the Sally Army banging a tambourine and haranguing people about the perils of drink! Hmmm, who can loan me a tamborine?
|First worn at Toitu Museum|
Fun Times Achieved: Hell yes.
|I say, I do love a good silhouette, but does this make my bum look big enough??|