At last I have found a suitable product to provide the internal support for my cage crinoline petticoat hybrid. I was in Mitre10 and saw a gardening bag kit that had 3 steel hoops to support the bag - and it had been marked down from $50 to just $5. Yay!
So the petticoat is sorted, but to finish my 1863 outfit in time for the botanical gardens 150th celebrations, I still need to hem the outer skirt, attach sleeves and trim to the bodice, and I haven't even started on a bonnet.
I estimate I have about two weeks work still to do. Unfortunately the 150th celebration is this weekend. I don't think I'm going to make it...
Jun 25, 2013
Jun 17, 2013
Book Review : "Guide to dress making" by J Henry Symonds (published 1876)
The Guide to dress making by J Henry Symonds is
a must-have for anyone interested in Victorian sewing techniques.
Published in 1876 it includes earlier
dressmaking techniques with diagrams on how to do cartridge pleats (which it
calls gauging), and also how to make engagaentes, a type of separate under
sleeve popular in the 1850s.
The main downside is the book focuses on ‘Ladies Underclothes’ and
therefore doesn’t have many patterns, and what’s included is extremely
basic but the How-to-sew information provided by the very readable text makes
up for this lack and I rate this book 4
out 5 stars.
Patterns
of note: chemise, nightdress, engagaentes, basic skirt, dress trimmings-ruches
- estimating material yardage
- a glossary of terms
- diagrams and examples of stitches, hems, cording, bias binding
- instructions and diagrams of how to measure person
- pitfalls for beginners to avoid.
- Very clear written instructions on cutting gored panels for skirts, including lengths required and allowing for hems, followed by a clear but basic pattern (which is drawn very small)
- Written guide how to assemble a dress
- diagrams how to lay out pattern on fabric
- sew seams and create seam casings for whalebones.
- Shows a couple of methods of dress decorating with ruches – this a little complicated looking, but worth seeing
- briefly covers bodices for balls, discussing options and giving tips on materials and styles– text only.
- A few pages dedicated to making over old dresses – text only.
- Text discussion with tips to making jackets, Dolmans etc.
- Chapter with clear instructions and diagrams on making a chemise and nightdresses.
The Guide to dress making is free to download through the Internet Archive HERE.
Where to find Public domain How-to-Sew books from the Victorian Era
If there's anything that gets my wannabe costumer's heart beating a little faster it's genuine Victorian dressmaking books, add to that FREE Victorian sewing books and you can well understand my joy at discovering the wealth of public domain books available through the Internet Archive - which as far as I can tell, are scanned copies of old books housed at the Library of Congress.
The books can be downloaded as PDFs, and some you can even load to your Kindle etc.
However, searching the archives can be a bit hit and miss, so I thought I would share and review some of the books that I find there, to find my reviews click on the "Book Reviews" link or "Public Domain Dress making books" in my side bar.
The books can be downloaded as PDFs, and some you can even load to your Kindle etc.
However, searching the archives can be a bit hit and miss, so I thought I would share and review some of the books that I find there, to find my reviews click on the "Book Reviews" link or "Public Domain Dress making books" in my side bar.
May 23, 2013
Project Petticoat - Stage Two
Using an absolutely massive 4 metre length of calico I acquired recently, [Making Makes My Life: Project Petticoat: Stage One ] the construction of my crinoline petticoat is going well but I've come a bit unstuck on what to use for the boning. I should say, use cheaply.
Because after much thought it occurred to me that flat sprung coils used for drain snakes might be perfect - and have the bonus of being closest modern equivalent to what cage crinolines were made of.
I searched every local $2 shop with no luck, only to find the type of drain snake I needed at Mitre10 - $12 for a 4.5 metre coil.
I bought one just to try, and it works perfectly, holds it shape but is also flexible. But my petticoat has 4 channels, so I'd need to buy 2 more drain snakes, putting the project well over budget.
I'll have to think about this. I was hoping to get my whole 1863 outfit done for under $40.
Because after much thought it occurred to me that flat sprung coils used for drain snakes might be perfect - and have the bonus of being closest modern equivalent to what cage crinolines were made of.
I searched every local $2 shop with no luck, only to find the type of drain snake I needed at Mitre10 - $12 for a 4.5 metre coil.
I bought one just to try, and it works perfectly, holds it shape but is also flexible. But my petticoat has 4 channels, so I'd need to buy 2 more drain snakes, putting the project well over budget.
I'll have to think about this. I was hoping to get my whole 1863 outfit done for under $40.
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| making my crinoline petticoat hybrid - stage 2 |
May 22, 2013
Christchurch CBD Two years after Earthquakes
This month I went to Christchurch, my plan was to check out the Edwardian heritage park of Ferrymead, but this didn't eventuate. I did get to look around the CBD and thought I'd share some of my photos.
Since the devastating earthquakes 2 years ago (learn about there HERE) over 1000 unsafe buildings have been demolished with still more to come down. Cranes now dominate the skyline and tourists like me wander near-empty streets.
Since the devastating earthquakes 2 years ago (learn about there HERE) over 1000 unsafe buildings have been demolished with still more to come down. Cranes now dominate the skyline and tourists like me wander near-empty streets.
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| Christchurch Central 2 years post quakes |
Apr 30, 2013
Is it possible to be addicted to Sewing Machines?
A recent conversation:
Me: "I just bought a Singer sewing machine."
My Sister: "Another one!"
Me: "Er...yes. But this one has a hand-crank. It has great control."
My Sister: "How many sewing machines have you got now?"
Me: "Counting broken ones?"
Sister: "Yes."
Me: "Counting mum's rusty one she made me store?"
Sister: "Yes, counting them all."
Me: "Five..."
Barely a year ago I had zero sewing machines. How did I go from none to many? I'm glad you asked.
After I met and fell in love with Iron Beauty, a friend was moving away and wanted to sell her old Singer. I bought it sight unseen and learned something wonderful. You see, excuse my ignorance, but at that time I didn't realise Singer produced different models. They looked the same to me: ornate chrome face plate, curved body, black enamel.
But I had just bought a Singer 319, circa 1957. It didn't look standard. It looked awesome.
A little while later my mother-in-law wanted to give away her Singer 15. Built in 1937 it was pre-war! How could I say no?
I was happy, I was content. The 319 has a vast array of decorative stitches, but Iron Beauty remained my workhorse, having the most reliable zigzag stitch. Then I broke her.
Of the 2 remaining, the Singer 15 could only do straight stitch (no reverse either), but nothing bothers her, she can handle the thickest material - unlike the 319. The downside to the 15 is she was originally a treadle-powered machine converted to a motor, so her starting and stopping function lacks precision.
I started to think how good it would be if I could buy a hand-crank that I could attach to the Singer 15.
That's when a circa 1924 Singer 66 in working order with hand-crank came up for sale on Trade Me.
And I started to think, uh-oh, what have I become? Am I a collector? Or do I have a sickness?
Me: "I just bought a Singer sewing machine."
My Sister: "Another one!"
Me: "Er...yes. But this one has a hand-crank. It has great control."
My Sister: "How many sewing machines have you got now?"
Me: "Counting broken ones?"
Sister: "Yes."
Me: "Counting mum's rusty one she made me store?"
Sister: "Yes, counting them all."
Me: "Five..."
Barely a year ago I had zero sewing machines. How did I go from none to many? I'm glad you asked.
After I met and fell in love with Iron Beauty, a friend was moving away and wanted to sell her old Singer. I bought it sight unseen and learned something wonderful. You see, excuse my ignorance, but at that time I didn't realise Singer produced different models. They looked the same to me: ornate chrome face plate, curved body, black enamel.
But I had just bought a Singer 319, circa 1957. It didn't look standard. It looked awesome.
A little while later my mother-in-law wanted to give away her Singer 15. Built in 1937 it was pre-war! How could I say no?
I was happy, I was content. The 319 has a vast array of decorative stitches, but Iron Beauty remained my workhorse, having the most reliable zigzag stitch. Then I broke her.
Of the 2 remaining, the Singer 15 could only do straight stitch (no reverse either), but nothing bothers her, she can handle the thickest material - unlike the 319. The downside to the 15 is she was originally a treadle-powered machine converted to a motor, so her starting and stopping function lacks precision.
I started to think how good it would be if I could buy a hand-crank that I could attach to the Singer 15.
That's when a circa 1924 Singer 66 in working order with hand-crank came up for sale on Trade Me.
And I started to think, uh-oh, what have I become? Am I a collector? Or do I have a sickness?
Apr 16, 2013
Project Petticoat: Stage One
In making an 1860s outfit the secret to getting the skirt 'poofing' nicely is a Cage Crinoline. As the name implies it was just that - a cage - made of graduating hoops which were strapped on with the under garments. A revolution in its day this contraction held aloft a lady's skirts, maintaining the fashionable dome-shape, while also reducing the weight and freeing the legs from being entangled in multiple layers of cloth petticoats.
Dresses in the 1850s were supported by a round hoop system but by the 1860s the fashionable silhouette had become elliptical, flatter at the front with the skirts swooping out behind.
There are plenty of great companies out there that still make crinolines/patterns today, like Truly Victorian.
But they're way over in America, and as I'm not too concerned about this being historically accurate construction-wise, I figure why not try and make my own?
My starting plan is to make a hybrid Petticoat Crinoline - basically a boned petticoat. I've been experimenting with mocking one up using a striped sheet that I sewed in channels for boning.
I think if I pad the hips with my bustle pad the shape will be OK, but I can see from this test run I'm going to have to make it much, much bigger. The bottom hoop has a 2 metre diameter. I think I need to make about 3 metres. Epp! SO MUCH FABRIC!
Good thing I bought a huge calico curtain from Toffs for only $2 - as pictured on the washing line. Have to wait and see how it turns out...
Dresses in the 1850s were supported by a round hoop system but by the 1860s the fashionable silhouette had become elliptical, flatter at the front with the skirts swooping out behind.
There are plenty of great companies out there that still make crinolines/patterns today, like Truly Victorian.
But they're way over in America, and as I'm not too concerned about this being historically accurate construction-wise, I figure why not try and make my own?
My starting plan is to make a hybrid Petticoat Crinoline - basically a boned petticoat. I've been experimenting with mocking one up using a striped sheet that I sewed in channels for boning.
 |
| Project Petticoat - First Mock-up |
I think if I pad the hips with my bustle pad the shape will be OK, but I can see from this test run I'm going to have to make it much, much bigger. The bottom hoop has a 2 metre diameter. I think I need to make about 3 metres. Epp! SO MUCH FABRIC!
Good thing I bought a huge calico curtain from Toffs for only $2 - as pictured on the washing line. Have to wait and see how it turns out...
 |
| Project Petticoat - stage 2: Build it Bigger |
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