HSF 14 - Challenge # 22 - Gentlemen = Making an 18th century "Darcy" Shirt

Happy Jane Austen Day! 239 years ago today on the 16th of December 1775, Jane Austen was born.

Since today (nearly) co-insides with the Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 challenge #22, I wanted to share a "Darcy" shirt I made.

18th century men's "Darcy" shirt - Front view

I made the shirt using instructions from "A Typical Eighteenth Century Military Shirt: A practical construction guide by Judith Wicker". The guide is very easy to follow, and I believe historically accurate. 

[You can find a copy of this pattern by doing a Google search, I 'm not posting the link because I couldn't find the original source, but I think it came via the NWTA. ]


Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014
The Challenge: # 22 - Gentlemen
Fabric: heavy cotton (old bedsheets)
Pattern: "A Typical Eighteenth Century Military Shirt: A practical construction guide by Judith Wicker".
Year: Eighteenth Century
Notions: buttons, thread
How historically accurate is it? Very. 80-90% originals might have been made in linen, I made slight mistake on the neck opening (explained below) and I did use the sewing machine...
Hours to complete: 6-8 hours across two days
First worn: Unworn
Total cost: under $10

Darcy shirt - side view

The only trouble I had with the pattern was the neck gussets, it doesn't specify they need to be gathered - in the middle but not the edges - as pictured below, to make the collar and neckline curve properly.

To ensure the neckline sits properly, gather centre of the shoulder gussets (green arrow), not the sides (red lines)

 
Also, I had a self-made boo-boo. I totally forgot to flip the front neck slit facing around to the back, and only realised it was on the wrong side after I had sewn the shoulder gussets. So I just added a ruffle under the facing, to make it look deliberate...

Pinning a ruffle under the facing which I forgot to flip through to the other side. Doh!

 I think it looks OK,

Neck ruffle and facing detail - not historically accurate...oopsy

 and I bet I'm not the only seamstress to make this mistake in the past 200 years!

Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 - Challenge #8: UFOs & PHDs

My UFO (Un-Finished Object) for the Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 - Challenge #8: UFOs & PHDs is the Truly Victorian 1873 Polonaise which I started on well over a year ago.

The pattern came together like a dream, even back then with my rusty haven't-sewn-since-highschool skills, until it came to the buttonholes and sewing on the sleeves...

Sure, being well-versed in YouTube tutorials, a stack of library books, in theory I knew how to attach sleeves and make buttonholes, but somehow I was filled with a dread akin to that of a last-minute supermarket run, the day before a public holiday, and so, being scared (and a bit spoiled), I stamped my feet and said, No-won't, too hard!

Sleeve ready to attach...but how?

And thus, I wimped out and this lovely top was hidden in the back wardrobe.

UFO - no sleeves, no buttons. Maybe it could just a be a Pirate vest???

I know I am not alone in my sleeve-attachment-phobia. What is it about sewing on sleeves that seems (cos it ain't really) so hard? Trying to force all that material until the sewing machine arm--not being able to see properly--fabric gets bunched up--argh--now I've sewed a pinch in the fabric--have to do it again!!!

But gentle Readers, there is hope! The answer lies in going back to basics, ie, hand-sewing.

I learned this when sewing my 1888 outfit. Simply prep a doubled-thread onto a needle, wax the thread - waxing is super important, it stops the thread from tangling when you sew.

[>>>How do you wax thread? Take your all-ready-to-go doubled-thread and a beeswax candle, press your thumb on the knot, thus holding the thread against the wax, and with your freehand pull the thread tails upward, so the threads slide between the wax and thumb. Do this twice. Yes, it's that simple.]

Then with sleeve pinned in position to the bodice, back stitch the two parts together. A curved needle helps, but is not essential. Not only does this create a surprisingly strong seam, but I have found hand-sewing quite relaxing.

And so, now my UFO is finished!

The Challenge: Challenge #8: UFOs & PHDs
Fabric: some kind of jacquard, with some kind of brushed broadcloth, maybe. Full disclosure: this started out as a tablecloth and a pair of curtains.

Pattern: Truly Victorian 1873 Polonaise
Year: 1873
Notions: thread, quite a bit of iron-in interfacing

How historically accurate is it? Excluding fabric, 85%, the pattern is very historically accurate (less so with my alterations) but the construction is a 50-50 blend of what you should do, and making-do

Hours to complete: Lost count, started in early 2013...

First worn: Not worn yet

Total cost: $15 - $20


One last note: Being that I am a tinkerer and a meddler, and can never simply follow a pattern,  here's what the Truly Victorian 1873 Polonaise should look like.

Whereas I have shortened the bodice length and altered the curved hemline to a double-point, which you can (kind of) see in this construction picture.

Wait! What about the buttonholes? 

Confession time. I still haven't learned that skill, but I have learned of a wonderful invention called Hook and Eye Tape...

Sewing Milestone - Creating an 1880s outfit

A year ago as a novice sewer my historical costuming adventures began with my first Victorian Costuming Project, an 1860s Spoon Bonnet, followed by an 1863 outfit to mark the Dunedin Botanical Gardens 150th celebrations.

They were simple projects for a more simple time, chosen to help build up my sewing skills so one day in the distance future I might sew something from my fav decade, the 1880s.

Two months ago I knew I needed a complete outfit for an Images of Past Dunedin event by the end of March and like an American Idol contestant I wasn't going to let dubious skills stop me any longer so I took the 1880s plunge.

Here's what I came up with:

Olden-time posing under the Peasgoode Nonesuch apple tree

As making this outfit coincided [sort-of] with the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge #5 'Bodice' today I'll talk about the main part of the outfit, the jacket.

My inspiration for the chevron back came from the extant garment below, full details HERE at Bonhams.

Extant 1880s dress with chevron back detail - Source = Bonhams

Details for Historical Sew Fortnightly
The Challenge:  #5 'Bodice'
Fabric: dark blue synthetic outer, poly-cotton inner

Pattern: 
I chose 'Ladies Costume' from the 1888 National Garment Cutter,

By the way, the 1888 National Garment Cutter is available FREE from the Library of Congress, aka the Internet Archive HERE

Pattern printed and back sections cut

I drafted the jacket using Adobe Illustrator, plotting out the Nat. Garment pattern exactly as stated and then merging it with my measurements in the form of a sloper  - drafted for me by a very kind friend, and without which I could not have made the jacket at all. Thank you S.W!!!

Year: 1888
Notions: thread, hook and eyes

How historically accurate is it? 
I give this 8 out of 10 for historicalness. Excluding the fabric's synthetic content, the pattern is 100% authentic, the construction is flat-lined, and sewn entirely on my 1937 Singer No15 which only does straight stitch - no reverse!

The Cat being helpful and my 1937 Singer

Jacket is flat-lined

1880s jacket in construction

Hours to complete: Many! Spread over two months I loss count. I really don't want to think about the time it took least it prove I'm crazy for doing things like this.

Problems encountered: Aside from the masses of time this took, I only had one major hiccup, it turns out I totally have one shoulder lower than the other! Who knew?

1880s Jacket - back not fitting quite right due to 'purse shoulder'...see the wrinkles on left shoulder

Argh - Fitting fail, had to adjust the left shoulder several times...but got there in the end :)

First worn: 28 March 2014, Toitu Museum

I really like this jacket, there's something quite severe about it that appeals to my odd sense of humour. I feel I should be standing outside the Sally Army banging a tambourine and haranguing people about the perils of drink! Hmmm, who can loan me a tamborine?

First worn at Toitu Museum

Total cost: jacket under $20
Fun Times Achieved: Hell yes.

I say, I do love a good silhouette, but does this make my bum look big enough??

Marie Antoinette Dress Project - Part 7 - The End

After attaching the sleeves, lining and hemming the MA dress was completed. All that remained was to deliver it to the birthday girl...

As promised, a Marie Antionette dress for my niece's birthday gift

... success!

[Note if you to have to make a late 1700s inspired dress, I have gathered a ton of resources on a Pinterest board HERE ]

Hmmm. Well that was fun. Now what shall I make?

Actually, as luck would have it the Monthly Stitch Collective challenge for March is a 'pattern stash buster' - the catch is You, not me, get to decide what I make.
Pictured below are 3 patterns from my stash:

 Let me put forth a case for each pattern:

• Simplicity 9585 (circa 1981) - I thought the bodice would make an excellent base for an Edwardian blouse. Maybe it will work, maybe it won't.
• Simplicity 4762 men's waistcoat - my hubby said if I made him one, he'd wear it. You can't argue with that logic and I think I do owe him after he helped me bring home all the lovely sewing machines I bought last year - without which I couldn't join the Monthly Stitch after all.
• Simplicity 6667 - (circa 1975) I'm not really a dress person, but if an occasion arose that required a dress, think I'd wear this.

Ok, there are Your choices, please cast a vote for which pattern I should make in the comments. Thank You!

18th century Petticoat - Marie Antoinette Dress Project - Part 5

Having learned how to make an adult-sized 18th century skirt, which you can see here in an HSF challenge, it was easy peasy making a kid-sized one mostly because I didn't have to make it much smaller.

The ingenious bib front and back construction of the petticoat means it will fit for ages - probably until it wears out. All I really need to do is sew some ties underneath to control the length.

Anyhow, here are photos of the completed petticoat showing with and without the under support of the paniers I made which as you may recall, my niece was less than thrilled about. That's ok, I won't make her wear them but I wanted to show you, because as you can see they really do create the right silhouette for the era.

And below you can see some of the making details. I sandwiched two layers, the silky outer is backed with cotton.

And if you to have to make a late 1700s inspired outfit, I have gathered a ton of resources on a Pinterest board HERE

HSF '14 - Challenge # 1: Make Do & Mend - An 18th century petticoat

Although my posts are getting behind, in real life I am speeding along in completing a Marie Antoinette dress for my niece's birthday - due second weekend of Feb.

And thankfully I've finally timed it right so I can enter this step as part of the 'Historical Sew Fortnightly' which I have been following on Facebook since last year.

Part of making the MA dress meant sewing a petticoat or underskirt and thanks to the tutorial "An Easy, Authentic Eighteenth Century Petticoat" by Koshka the Cat I was able to make one - two in fact. I made an adult-sized one for myself, which I'm sharing today for the HSF challenge, and I made a child-sized one for my niece, photos of her one to be posted soon.

To construct the petticoat: basically take a huge rectangle of fabric, pleat it down to 70% of total waist, add an apron style waistband and ties. Repeat so you have a front and back. Stitch together at the sides but leave the top 9 inches open. The only thing I altered from Koshka's instructions is I doubled the thickness, pleating down two sheets to give the petticoat extra poof. You can see in the photos, top side and under side, show the two layers of pleating.

bib openings makes it great for sizing!

The Challenge: Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 - Challenge # 1: Make Do & Mend

Fabric: 1 x stripey polycotton valance, 1 x white polycotton flat bedsheet

Pattern: no pattern required

Year: 1700s

Notions: just thread

How historically accurate is it? Not sure. The shape is accurate, but the materials, let's say...50% and I did sew it on a machine, not by hand...

Hours to complete: 6 at least. Not complicated but bulky!

First worn: not worn yet

Total cost: $3 for valance from Toffs Dunedin, already had the white sheet.

Completed 18th century petticoat

Paniers for Marie Antoinette Dress Project - Part 4

Let's talk Paniers.

Using the excellent instructions provided by the Dreamstress here and the cane I purchased here I completed some pretty nifty paniers. Since it was the first making them I thought I'd follow the Dreamstress' directions exactly and made them adult-sized, planning to make a smaller child-sized version for my niece once I got the hang of the design.

However, on showing the paniers to my niece, and giving her the big spiel about it all being historically accurate blah blah, her response was, "They look weird"

Yeh.

Obviously 12 year olds don't appreciate historical accuracy as much as one would expect. Poo! Looks like I might just have to sew a big poofy petticoat of some sort. Time is really ticking on though - just a month to go until her birthday and I have to deliver a completed MA dress. Maybe I should have started a little earlier?

Hmmm, and what am I going to do with an adult-sized pair of paniers? It's not like I'd make an 18th century outfit for myself, I mean like, I'm all about the 19th century... *sigh*

finished paniers with their internal cane supports

...of course though, no reason I couldn't branch out. Just a little. Maybe. Change is scary.

[Note if you to have to make a late 1700s inspired garments, I have gathered a ton of resources on a Pinterest board HERE ]

The Perfect Apron

My handmade birthday present of choice this year has been aprons - partly due to getting a ruffler foot for my sewing machine, and what could be better suited to ruffles than an apron?

I came across "The Perfect Apron" by Robert Merrett at the good old Dunedin Public library and for my sister-in-laws B'day whipped up (10 hours! ack! I'm so slow) an apron based on the Hot Lips cocktail pattern. My only change was to add a pocket - using the pocket pattern Floral Dance from the book.

the apron I made for my sister-in-law

My youngest niece just loved it and wanted one too (not the niece who wants the Marie Antoinette dress). I gave her the book and she picked out Gypsy Spirit.





My only change was to make the design reversible and again use the Floral Dance pocket. It took me about seven hours to complete - not including the pocket.

She loved it, wore it all night as we played 'shop'. And when my hubby went around to their place the next day, she was still wearing it.

reversible apron for my niece

Success!

1863 Outfit to Mark the Dunedin Botanical Gardens 150th

Made it! Just not on the actual day...

This is only my second ever Victorian Costuming Project.
I drafted the spoon bonnet pattern myself, an earlier version seen here. The skirt is simply 4 plus metres of panels that have been box-pleated at the front and sides, and cartridge pleated at the back. It's worn over my cage crinoline petticoat hybrid. The jacket is based on the Spring Paletot pattern a free pattern available through resources provided by The Ladies Treasury

Now what to do with my 1863 outfit? As luck would have it, Otago Boys High School are also celebrating their 150th this year. I wonder if they'll have a fete open to the public? If not, maybe I'll go pose outside the gate. It's all about the photo-op after all. ;p

Happy costuming everyone, and Happy 150th Dunedin Botanical Gardens! My, you are old!

My First Victorian Costuming Project: 1860s Spoon Bonnet

Having recently become interested in Victorian costuming I've been wondering where to start. What to make first? I love the fashions from the 1870s and1880s when bustles ruled supreme and flounces and pleating burst from every seam, but I'm a beginning sewer, I'm using the skills taught to me in high school, so as much as I hate to admit it, trying to make an 1880s outfit would be a bit ambitious.

And then I learned something that gave me an idea.

Both the Dunedin Botanical Gardens and Otago Boys High School were founded in 1863 and are celebrating their 150th this year, and it occurred to me that Dunedin has a wealth of buildings and venues built during the Victorian era and over the next few decades many more establishments will celebrate such milestones.

So my idea is: I will begin my costuming journey in 1863, when clothes and fashions were simpler, and as time marches on, hopefully my sewing skills will too.(either that, or I will get bored and do something else)

Wanting to start with something small, and after a bit of research on fashions in the 1860s, I decided to tackle a Spoon Bonnet. My decision was partly due to finding a tutorial HERE which showed me how to get the brim shape.
>>I didn't follow all her steps, like lining my hat with hessian instead of cardboard, because I wanted it to be washable, also I sewed it flat so it could be reversible. [My construction is far from historically accurate, but I could do a tutorial if people are interested.]

Above are a few pictures from when I made the Spoon Bonnet, (it took about 4 days to make!) and a photo from its first outing at Brighton Gala Day - now I just have to make the rest of an 1860s outfit. The Botanical Gardens celebrate their founding on the 30th of June 2013, I guess that gives me about 3 months...